Suspension setup/advice

[white1]

Wondering what you guys are running for rear suspension setups.

Talking with AAD after I installed my rear control arms, he wasn't too wild about the demon killer springs with the stock shocks. His advice was either swap shocks or go back to stock springs in the rear.

I'm currently running the 3.09 rear end but made a few changes at the same time, so not 100% what caused my traction issues to magnify at the track.

I enjoy the drivability of the 3.09 other than the gear noise, so I'd like to stay with the 3.09 if I can make things work

My current setup for track days is demon killer rear springs, viking shocks, AAD rear upper control arms, BMR trailing arms, BMR cradle lockout
I struggle to cut 1.5 or better 60's. I recently swapped to Hoosier QTP in a 28x11.5-17 which measure 29.7"
They seem like they might be the ticket, but I blew the engine on my second pass with these tires.
Curious what everyone else is doing to achieve 1.4 and better 60' times.

I'm currently leaving in 2nd gear and have had no luck on 305/45 mickey thompson et street r, and very limited luck on the Hoosier DBR 28x11-17. I was hoping to not go with Mencer coil overs but might if that's my only option. My biggest concern is that I daily drive the car and it's our family car when it isn't broken. I don't want to add any noise, or handling issues with drag racing coil overs but I'm not even sure if they would create any noises, or handling issues

 

[jgilj]

This is what was sent too me !

 

[vortecd]

One of the reason I took my 3.09's out was the gear noise. Seems the aluminum driveshaft has added to it since I have a little noise with the stock 2.62s I didn't have before it. 3.09s and aluminum driveshaft went in at the same time
Another reason I took them out was to get the car to hook better when I add more power. 2 years it was stock with the 2.62s it hooked every pass with the Nittos I used at the Hemi Shootout. Last year with the 3.09s it spun once at 2 different races

 

[vortecd]

I have the AAD arms but have not installed them yet but there is nothing better out there. Track prep is the first thing. If that isn't there then it will be hit or miss

 

[Speedy!]

I think OST had/has Mencer shocks on their car and they told me they're considering going back to stock. They didn't recommend any spring/shock changes if you drive the car much on the street. I've cut low to mid 1.4x 60's on a 305/45/17 MT ET R with good prep. On not so good prep it's mid to high 1.5s. I'm on the stock 2.62 gear, AAD drag pack parts, and 18-20psi in the tires.

There'll be a private TNT at Beech Bend the same weekend as ChallengerFest. I plan to test a few more things then like some tune changes for poor traction and tire pressures. It's too hard to really test things at a TNT of all things, too much time in between runs to know what works and what doesn't.

 

[white1]

This is what was sent too me !

I forgot I am a little positive camber in the rear. I'm not sure if toe was adjusted or not

 

[white1]

Both of our local tracks are hit and miss with prep, but I was always able to make the car work before the 3.09 and e85. I guess its just going to take some experimenting once I get it back together. If I don't have any luck I guess Ill be going back to 2.62 rear and see how that does for me

 

[DavidKFla]

3.09 gears has been great for me with and without a tune on 305 45-18 Street Rs. Car hooks and goes 99% of the time.

 

[Speedy!]

Well, you changed gears and if your E85 tune up is anything like mine, added power, so two significant changes. I'd start with taking some power out down low before changing gears. On my last outing on E85 trying to send it, I had to remove what I'm guessing was about 90hp at the hit to get it to stick.

 

[jgilj]

I was normally running with traction control off, when track prep isn’t there I use traction control. I don’t believe it’s hurting me but helping me?

 

[Marc W]

There are a hundred different factors concerning that sixty foot performance. Track, tire, suspension and last but not least…. Horsepower. I ran the AAD (complete Drag Pack setup) and the factory 1320 springs with stock shocks. Cradle lockouts are a absolute must in my opinion if you want a stable rear and reduced risk of breaking stuff. They are a part of the suspension factor. I was running consistent 1.25 to 1.30 sixty’s at full weight with the IRS. No need for expensive shocks! I’m going to keep saying this…… 15” conversion for the track!! (one of the reasons for those sixty’s). You can run whatever you want on the street but if you want to get the full potential out of your car off the line at the track….. the 15” wheel/tire combinations available are 10,000% better. I know that that cost money, but when I hear that a set of Mencer shocks are being considered, I’m going 😵‍💫. AAD just came out with a swaybar link that allows you to use the stock rear spindle with the 15” conversion without grinding anything. You could cut the stock link attachment point off the spindle and just get rid of it. That cuts the cost of the conversion because you don’t need the expensive billet spindle to do it right (meaning no grinding). I haven’t looked lately but the conversion used to run around $1200? I would run the 15’s on the street and just pump them up to 30 lbs. I couldn’t believe how nice the ride was and how hard they would still hook compared to the previous 17” ET-R I was running. It’s another planet when it comes to traction, not just at the track but also the street. One last thing…. This whole conversation about being able to put the power to the ground. If you are still running anything close to stock power and saying that you don’t have a problem with your 305-17s…. That is more a case of not knowing what you don’t know. Add 300+hp and see how that goes.

 

[Tuckerracing]

I was over 1000rwhp before my motor locked up, with 2.62 rear, demon killer springs, stock shocks, bmr cradle lock out, aad drag pack, 15” rear conversion, 15x10 RC Components with MT 315/60/15 i could consistently cut 1.4 60ft’s with some 1.3 and 1.2 thrown in there. If i had trouble hooking I would start in 2nd gear and that normally would solve the problem. A lot of that is throttle control and reading the track.

Going to the cradle lock-out, aad drag pak, 15” rear wheel and a good tire is one of the best things you can do to our cars to get them to hook up. You can make all the power you want but in my opinion if you are not changing those 4 things then you will continue to have issues hooking up on a poorly prepped track, IMO!

 

[white1]

I got the cradle lockout. I have heard of people running the 1320 springs over the demon killers, so I might try that. I was trying to avoid a 15" conversion (probably due to pure ignorance) but from what I see, thats going to be the cure.