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How-To: Rebuild Front Two Piece Rotors.

Diboblo

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#1
Tools required:

10mm Torx socket.
10mm deep socket.
2 ratchets.
262 Loc-Tite, or Permatex Orange.
In. Oz. torque wrench.
Steel wire brush.
Brembo H-Bobbin hardware kit.
Black Spray Paint (optional)


To begin with, disassemble each rotor, removing the hat, from the disk. You will need both ratchets, with Torx and 10mm deep socket.



My rotors were apparently built on a Friday afternoon. If my hardware configuration looks different, than yours, make a note and re-assemble the way yours are built. That's what I did.



Once the hat is separated, from the disk, you will want to remove the H-bobbins and spring clips. The spring clips slide right out.



I wire brushed the hat and painted it.



While that dried, I took a wire brush, to the H-Bobbins, to remove all the brake dust.





Bob
 


OP
Diboblo

Diboblo

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Thread Starter #2
Once the hat was dry, I installed new spring clips and the cleaned up H-Bobbins.



Once complete, mount the hat, to the disk.



Use a small amount of thread lock, on the first few threads, of the bolts. Tighten them, in crosswise pattern, to 65 Inch Pounds. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM.



Now, you're finished and can re-mount, to the car.



Hope this helps.

Bob
 


Last edited:

vortecd

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#3
Great write up. Where did you get the hardware kit?
 


AeroF16

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Nice work, Bob. Nothing like the satisfaction of a job well done!
 


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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #5
Great write up. Where did you get the hardware kit?
Believe it, or not... eBay.

Just replaced the H-bobbin retaining springs. I had 5 of them fail, as detailed in another thread.

Bob
 


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Beautiful job. Thanks.
 


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great write-up and nice work!
 


DGatzby

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#8
Great job, Bob! Very helpful post.
 


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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #9
@WIKI

Bob
 


MiHiHemi

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Interesting. My nuts are the other way around...and no jokes guys :ROFLMAO:

IMG_2179.JPG
 


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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #11
Interesting. My nuts are the other way around...and no jokes guys

View attachment 46736
Yeah. I think I remarked that I've seen both ways.

I just rebuilt the way mine were.

Bob
 


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Interesting. My nuts are the other way around...and no jokes guys :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 46736
Interesting. My nuts are the other way around...and no jokes guys :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 46736
Hey there mihihemi just seeing this thread and I'm rebuilding my front brakes but I'm having a hard time finding just the rotors by themselves. Love your design over the plain old slotted any chance you have a model or part number or brand? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan
 


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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #13

MiHiHemi

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Hey there mihihemi just seeing this thread and I'm rebuilding my front brakes but I'm having a hard time finding just the rotors by themselves. Love your design over the plain old slotted any chance you have a model or part number or brand? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan
If you go DBA, here’s the nut torque info. It’s easy to do yourself. Just a little tedious and I used a bit of blue Loctite. They also send along new nuts. Nice thing about DBA is they’re non-directional so you can’t mess up which side you install them on.

Screen Shot 2019-05-31 at 9.45.40 AM.png

IMG_2178.JPG
 


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#15
Once the hat was dry, I installed new spring clips and the cleaned up H-Bobbins.



Once complete, mount the hat, to the disk.



Use a small amount of thread lock, on the first few threads, of the bolts. Tighten them, in crosswise pattern, to 65 Inch Pounds. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM.



Now, you're finished and can re-mount, to the car.



Hope this helps.

Bob

Did you turn the rotors?

Did wife catch you drifting spray paint over the awning and metal frame? ;)
 


BULL

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#16
My input on the subject is that there seems to be a torque discrepancy. However, on hardware like this, different hardware can make a notable difference, so keep that in mind.

I've seen values from 65lb-in to 100lb-in and even other values as well.
 


OP
Diboblo

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Thread Starter #17
Did you turn the rotors?

Did wife catch you drifting spray paint over the awning and metal frame? ;)
No and no.

LOL

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 


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#18
M6 is the size of course, which grade is critical, and you don't want to use 100% either.

CDT is currently using Grade 10.9 and recommending 120lb-in, but this is not directly applicable to the above information.

1658705240860.png
 


MiHiHemi

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My input on the subject is that there seems to be a torque discrepancy. However, on hardware like this, different hardware can make a notable difference, so keep that in mind.

I've seen values from 65lb-in to 100lb-in and even other values as well.
The torque info I used was supplied by DBA. 13 Nm = 115 inch/lb or 9.5 ft/lb.
 


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McLovin

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Believe it, or not... eBay.

Just replaced the H-bobbin retaining springs. I had 5 of them fail, as detailed in another thread.

Bob
Happen to have a link by chance?

Looked for it yesterday, but came up empty....
 




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