Demon Performance Rotors for Road Courses

[PJO]

It is rotor replacement time, sadly. Anyone using these on road courses have any overheating issues? The lower weight would be a plus, but, a rotor’s whole job is to absorb and dissipate heat, so there‘s that.

 

[BULL]

It is rotor replacement time, sadly. Anyone using these on road courses have any overheating issues? The lower weight would be a plus, but, a rotor’s whole job is to absorb and dissipate heat, so there‘s that.

I have certain biases, however it comes down to what you want from the rotors.

I currently run DP rotors on my car when I'm not field testing CDT Rotors.

DP rotors (mine anyway) are not as light as they advertise, I'll post a pic.

I also had to return a front DP rotor after less than 500 miles and ONE light-med duty track day due to a crack (note, NO heat-checking on that rotor, other one was fine, replacement has been fine too)

 

[BULL]

 

[Christian Dionne]

I use Girodiscs with Hawk DTC-70 pads. They are similar to DP, maybe they are identical?

 

[PJO]

I have certain biases, however it comes down to what you want from the rotors.

I currently run DP rotors on my car when I'm not field testing CDT Rotors.

DP rotors (mine anyway) are not as light as they advertise, I'll post a pic.

I also had to return a front DP rotor after less than 500 miles and ONE light-med duty track day due to a crack (note, NO heat-checking on that rotor, other one was fine, replacement has been fine too)


View attachment 112698

Thanks. It would be good if I can make it til “yours” come to market. Those sound awesome.

 

[TrackDay]

I use Girodiscs with Hawk DTC-70 pads. They are similar to DP, maybe they are identical?

I believe they are the same.
I run them and have for years, hard on road courses. I've had no issues.

 

[GNBRETT]

The less work ur brakes have to do will result in less heat. Less rotating mass means ur brakes dont have to work as hard to stop the car cause its now lighter so of course they will run cooler.

It is rotor replacement time, sadly. Anyone using these on road courses have any overheating issues? The lower weight would be a plus, but, a rotor’s whole job is to absorb and dissipate heat, so there‘s that.

 

[BULL]

The less work ur brakes have to do will result in less heat. Less rotating mass means ur brakes dont have to work as hard to stop the car cause its now lighter so of course they will run cooler.

Likewise, less mass to accelerate as well.

 

[SIXGUN]

I use Girodiscs with Hawk DTC-70 pads. They are similar to DP, maybe they are identical?

Girodisc makes the DP rotors as far as I know. I bought DP rotors for the back, as they were the only two-piece rear rotors available at the time. I bought Girodics rotors from KNS to replace the rear rings, which are almost devoid of grooves at this point, but still not cracked and working fine with Hawk 70s. (See pic, still have not changed them because they work abd are not cracked) Highly recommend the DP rear two piece rotors, then just replace the rings with Girodisc (unless Girodisc sells a two-piece rotor now). They dissipate heat waaaay better than the one piece cast units. The Hawk 70s square on the car will wear better than the OE pads, which I do not recommend for track use, as they will fade on you and taper very badly. All pads will taper up front, but if you flip the Hawk 70 pads up front about half way through their thickness, they'll wear almost perfectly when they are gone. The rear pads wear more on the inside than the outside, so about half way through flip them inside to outside and they will wear almost perfectly to the end.
The Hawk 70s work on the rear even better with the new Girodisc pads I installed up front, which are significantly stronger brakes (and about $600 (!!) for the front, vs $325 for Hawk 70s) for fast track use. Harder on the rotors, too. Heat checks appeared after one weekend on Sebring on new front rotors. But man, best brake setup so far on my WBRE. I was only getting 13 x 20-30 min sessions at Sebring before being metal to metal. Two full weekends so far on the new Girodisc pads up front, and about 1/2 pad remaining.
I originally went with DBA T5 rotors up front as the DP front rotors were a proprietary bolt pattern and I wanted to use my front hats. Went through two sets of those, as they worked well but eventually developed cracks. Figured I would try the Girodisc rotors. This last set of front rotors are Girodisc that fit the OE hat.
On my Redeye there is not enough cooling to the front rotors, so they get pretty hot. I added Titanium shims between the pads and calipers on all corners, which seems to help. Unless you are tracking the car, I suggest Girodisc or DP (US made), or DBA T5s. You'll need to order new nuts at a minimum, as they are supposed to be one time use. Also change to good DOT4 fluid before you go hitting the track hard. Fresh DOT L3 is fine too, but higher boiling temps for DOT 4.

 

[BULL]

Sorry, it's unclear which rotor it is in the first picture (the cracked one).

 

[2ndgen]

I use Girodiscs with Hawk DTC-70 pads. They are similar to DP, maybe they are identical?

There are two versions of the Girodisc rotors for the fronts:
* KNS sells Girodisc rings that fit the OE hat
* DemonPerformance version, sold by numerous vendors, is a 2-piece with a hat that has a custom bolt pattern, the same vendors also sell replacement rings for this setup

 

[DGatzby]

Sorry, it's unclear which rotor it is in the first picture (the cracked one).

Bull man…she is definitely cracked; this pic…

 

[DGatzby]

Girodisc makes the DP rotors as far as I know. I bought DP rotors for the back, as they were the only two-piece rear rotors available at the time. I bought Girodics rotors from KNS to replace the rear rings, which are almost devoid of grooves at this point, but still not cracked and working fine with Hawk 70s. (See pic, still have not changed them because they work abd are not cracked) Highly recommend the DP rear two piece rotors, then just replace the rings with Girodisc (unless Girodisc sells a two-piece rotor now). They dissipate heat waaaay better than the one piece cast units. The Hawk 70s square on the car will wear better than the OE pads, which I do not recommend for track use, as they will fade on you and taper very badly. All pads will taper up front, but if you flip the Hawk 70 pads up front about half way through their thickness, they'll wear almost perfectly when they are gone. The rear pads wear more on the inside than the outside, so about half way through flip them inside to outside and they will wear almost perfectly to the end.
The Hawk 70s work on the rear even better with the new Girodisc pads I installed up front, which are significantly stronger brakes (and about $600 (!!) for the front, vs $325 for Hawk 70s) for fast track use. Harder on the rotors, too. Heat checks appeared after one weekend on Sebring on new front rotors. But man, best brake setup so far on my WBRE. I was only getting 13 x 20-30 min sessions at Sebring before being metal to metal. Two full weekends so far on the new Girodisc pads up front, and about 1/2 pad remaining.
I originally went with DBA T5 rotors up front as the DP front rotors were a proprietary bolt pattern and I wanted to use my front hats. Went through two sets of those, as they worked well but eventually developed cracks. Figured I would try the Girodisc rotors. This last set of front rotors are Girodisc that fit the OE hat.
On my Redeye there is not enough cooling to the front rotors, so they get pretty hot. I added Titanium shims between the pads and calipers on all corners, which seems to help. Unless you are tracking the car, I suggest Girodisc or DP (US made), or DBA T5s. You'll need to order new nuts at a minimum, as they are supposed to be one time use. Also change to good DOT4 fluid before you go hitting the track hard. Fresh DOT L3 is fine too, but higher boiling temps for DOT 4. View attachment 116366 View attachment 116367 View attachment 116368

Quit doing that Willis!! Glad it is still hanging together for ya.

 

[BULL]

Bull man…she is definitely cracked; this pic…

View attachment 116453

I'm just asking which manufacturer that is? O.E. or DP?

 

[BULL]

Nevermind, that's an O.E. rotor

 

[Christian Dionne]

There are two versions of the Girodisc rotors for the fronts:
* KNS sells Girodisc rings that fit the OE hat
* DemonPerformance version, sold by numerous vendors, is a 2-piece with a hat that has a custom bolt pattern, the same vendors also sell replacement rings for this setup

Girodisc makes a complete 400mm rotor/hat assembly. I have them now A1-277. I am ordering replacement rings for their hats from frozenrotors.com. I never did check the stock hats to see if they measure the same. My supplier doesn't have the Hawk DTC-70 pads in stock, trying some others this week. I'm excited to try my new Apex wheels and Hoosier slicks this weekend at NCM.

 

[BULL]

Girodisc makes a complete 400mm rotor/hat assembly. I have them now A1-277. I am ordering replacement rings for their hats from frozenrotors.com. I never did check the stock hats to see if they measure the same. My supplier doesn't have the Hawk DTC-70 pads in stock, trying some others this week. I'm excited to try my new Apex wheels and Hoosier slicks this weekend at NCM.

When you get these, could you weigh them for me, I'm very curious to know if they actually weigh 23lbs or not. The set I have are heavier than that.

 

[BULL]

For reference, my DPs are 25.4lbs (ea, front)

 

[DGatzby]

Nevermind, that's an O.E. rotor

That got HOT never seen an OE look like that. But, every DP set has the heat checks like that.

 

[BULL]

I most here have seen this already, but for others that might stumble onto this thread.

These were my O.E. rotors that saw very limited use at the Colorado Mile, but with the notable (and very much NOT recommended) combination of Z26 pads.