What did you do to your Hellcat today?

[Unholy707]

Headers on for the 19th time. All wrapped up and “torqued”. Time to start putting the rest of it back together from the header install, change the plugs. Then putting the supercharger back together

 

[1971demon]

Looks like I’m out of the fight for a bit so.. View attachment 155852

what's that mean

 

[DGatzby]

Put the trickle charger on the Lithium monster for this month. All is good. Maybe only 1-2 times remain before it can stand on its own again because we can bring it back out. I know wishful thinking after what we just saw in the weather. I am sure when the jet stream adjusts back this way we will get our share of snow.

 

[Paladin06]

what's that mean

Health issues, no driving permitted. Put the girls on the trickle chargers.

 

[1971demon]

Health issues, no driving permitted. Put the girls on the trickle chargers.

Oh man....that's not good...hope it's not something too serious..(or long term)...yer a tough guy..I will hold a good thought for ya brother...

 

[EricG]

Health issues, no driving permitted. Put the girls on the trickle chargers.

Sorry to hear, hope it passes and you are out burning rubber again soon!

 

[Octanewide]

Health issues, no driving permitted. Put the girls on the trickle chargers.

Hang in there brother you'll get better..

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Demonic Cat]

Looks like I’m out of the fight for a bit so.. View attachment 155852

I thought our mascots were supposed to be cats, not K9 even though dogs are man’s best friends. Stay well my man

 

[TorRedHellgato]

Going to go to the garage after work today and will NOT start it and let it idle. Given the advice from the members here.

 

[45-70govt]

Going to go to the garage after work today and will NOT start it and let it idle. Given the advice from the members here.

When the day comes to drive again make sure to prime up the engine with oil prior to start. One foot on the brake, and hold the gas pedal to the floor. Hit the starter button and she will only crank for 10 seconds building some oil pressure prior to seeing firing loads. Once the starter automatically stops, then foot off the gas and start as normal. Your motor will thank you. The manual says to perform this procedure anytime the engine has sat for 2 weeks or longer...

 

[1971demon]

When the day comes to drive again make sure to prime up the engine with oil prior to start. One foot on the brake, and hold the gas pedal to the floor. Hit the starter button and she will only crank for 10 seconds building some oil pressure prior to seeing firing loads. Once the starter automatically stops, then foot off the gas and start as normal. Your motor will thank you. The manual says to perform this procedure anytime the engine has sat for 2 weeks or longer...

Wow..anytime it sits dormant for 2 wks or more...(I did not know that)...makes perfect sense though

 

[Jimmy N.]

I do it after two or three days, but only for about four or five seconds.

Sure couldn't hurt to get the oil ready for the startup.

 

[2ndAmend]

Going to go to the garage after work today and will NOT start it and let it idle. Given the advice from the members here.

I am not an automotive engineer, but I think anyone who starts a car in NY in mid winter and immediately drives off does not care about his car.

I ALWAYS let a car idle before driving. In summer with a warm engine, I may let it idle 30 sec. Today it was 24deg, I let it idle 5 min. So far I have never had an engine failure, and the last 3 cars I sold had 127k, 140k and 153k. And they ran like new when I sold them!

The 127k was the GTO, best car I ever owned, I replaced it with the HC. The other two were the 20y old Silverado and Wrangler. I wanted to keep them both for another 10y, but the rust was a progressive prob.

 

[Unholy707]

I am not an automotive engineer, but I think anyone who starts a car in NY in mid winter and immediately drives off does not care about his car.

I ALWAYS let a car idle before driving. In summer with a warm engine, I may let it idle 30 sec. Today it was 24deg, I let it idle 5 min. So far I have never had an engine failure, and the last 3 cars I sold had 127k, 140k and 153k. And they ran like new when I sold them!

The 127k was the GTO, best car I ever owned, I replaced it with the HC. The other two were the 20y old Silverado and Wrangler. I wanted to keep them both for another 10y, but the rust was a progressive prob.

I don’t agree with this

 

[Jimmy N.]

I am not an automotive engineer, but I think anyone who starts a car in NY in mid winter and immediately drives off does not care about his car.

I ALWAYS let a car idle before driving. In summer with a warm engine, I may let it idle 30 sec. Today it was 24deg, I let it idle 5 min..

My first car, a well worn '65, came with the owners manual which stated that it's better to drive off than to idle the engine. And all these years later that still seems to hold true.

No engine that I know of likes to idle, not even diesels that many seem to think has to idle while getting fuel, going into a store, etc.

Why not build oil pressure first as described above instead of idling. One of the two helps the engine, the other does not.

 

[2ndAmend]

You guys do what you want. I do what works.

 

[1971demon]

I don’t agree with this

Why....your car still doesn't run...what do you know

 

[BULL]

My input on an idling engine (a performance engine you care about) is to not let it idle at a steady RPM, but to vary the engine RPM up and down.

The idea is to not let those rings wear in at idle which can create a "land" that the rings have to bust through once they get into the upper RPM range and everything stretches out.

When I'm warming up an engine, after about 1min or so, I'll start gently varying RPM up through 3000ish, no hard rule, just not set at one RPM.

And I always try to hit max RPM at least once when I'm driving, keeping that land from being created on the non-stretched side of life.

.02

 

[1971demon]

My input on an idling engine (a performance engine you care about) is to not let it idle at a steady RPM, but to vary the engine RPM up and down.

The idea is to not let those rings wear in at idle which can create a "land" that the rings have to bust through once they get into the upper RPM range and everything stretches out.

When I'm warming up an engine, after about 1min or so, I'll start gently varying RPM up through 3000ish, no hard rule, just not set at one RPM.

And I always try to hit max RPM at least once when I'm driving, keeping that land from being created on the non-stretched side of life.

.02

My DD...Ram1500...summer weather..(above 59 degrees)...get in and go...winter (30 and below)...warm up a min or 2..and go...I get a new one every 3 years so not that big of a concern...I'm on my 8th P/U...no issues to date...my cats...warmup a couple of min..then easy on the throttle till 175 degrees....I assume it works..

 

[BULL]

My DD...Ram1500...summer weather..(above 59 degrees)...get in and go...winter (30 and below)...warm up a min or 2..and go...I get a new one every 3 years so not that big of a concern...I'm on my 8th P/U...no issues to date...my cats...warmup a couple of min..then easy on the throttle till 175 degrees....I assume it works..

Essentially the same with my PW and HC too.