Jared's 2015 Challenger Hellcat Build

[Jroc]

On 3.8L, The big throttle body motor hits the power steering reservoir on cars that still use hydraulic power steering. You’d have to come up with a solution for that like remote mount the reservoir, convert to electric power steering, modify the stock plastic reservoir, or whatever idea you can come up with that you can implement.

I have the Nick Williams 130mm TB on mine and the stock reservoir clears it.

 

[zhc]

I have the Nick Williams 130mm TB on mine and the stock reservoir clears it.

If you flip the TB to face the motor away from the rail, I would imagine it does. My hood doesn't clear it though.

 

[Jroc]

If you flip the TB to face the motor away from the rail, I would imagine it does. My hood doesn't clear it though.

It’s close, but fits. Does your 3.8 use the stock By-pass or is it the race version?

 

[zhc]

Yea, mine didn't clear, not even close, nor did it clear for many others I tuned. Perhaps they adjusted the adapter plate design to clock the TB differently so that it does after receiving feedback about it.

 

[Jroc]

Yea, mine didn't clear, not even close, nor did it clear for many others I tuned. Perhaps they adjusted the adapter plate design to clock the TB differently so that it does after receiving feedback about it.

Yeah that’s the likely scenario.

 

[jorge0999]

I made a remote reservoir so I have a plastic one if you need

I’ll buy

 

[Jroc]

I might have found a great deal on a 426 rotating assembly. Just waiting to confirm the pistons/rods etc. I am also waiting to find out the cam specs, but am thinking of going with an OST Demon Plus cam and Thitek heads. I have finally been convinced to ditch the factory electronics and go Holley dominator EFI, and we will be throwing a TH400 in it at the same time. I will have to figure out what trans gear ratios and which rear-end gear to go with. This was basically year two of fighting with the car the whole year so it's time to simplify the situation.

I am open to injector size suggestions, running a 426 in the mid-20 lb of boost range and running E85, I am thinking 2150's are probably the way to go.

 

[fumanchu182]

@Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC may chime in here. If not I have 1650 and 1700s that can be made available. If you buy used I can clean too.

 

[Marc W]

I might have found a great deal on a 426 rotating assembly. Just waiting to confirm the pistons/rods etc. I am also waiting to find out the cam specs, but am thinking of going with an OST Demon Plus cam and Thitek heads. I have finally been convinced to ditch the factory electronics and go Holley dominator EFI, and we will be throwing a TH400 in it at the same time. I will have to figure out what trans gear ratios and which rear-end gear to go with. This was basically year two of fighting with the car the whole year so it's time to simplify the situation.

I am open to injector size suggestions, running a 426 in the mid-20 lb of boost range and running E85, I am thinking 2150's are probably the way to go.

A couple things just for your info…. I was using ID1700’s when I was running the Whipple 4.5L and saw 1202 rwhp thru my T400 and a 9” rear. That was at 23 lbs boost on Ignite Red. There is a significant drivetrain power loss on the dyno with that combination trans/rear when compared to OE. I was told approx 100. So the 1700’s will work for up to what amounts to somewhere around 1300, but that was maxed. I have since gone to the 2150’s and there is plenty of room for more with those. My driveline combination now is a Coan Engineering Factory Showdown 400-XLT. Ratios are 2.00/1.36 1st/2nd. Rear gear is a 3.40 with a 30” tall Radial Pro. So…. That’s my combination. If you are going to run a OE rear gear then you are looking at a 3.70. That’s pretty low for a car with the low end power and torque a built one of these makes. You are probably going to want to adjust those trans ratios accordingly. The 3.70 will work of coarse because some fast guys are using them. But I suspect that their motors are able to spin higher than 7000 rpm to get to the finish line without running out. Another part of the puzzle is the converter. Your trans/converter builder needs to spec that to work to with your total package and make sure you’re as tight in high gear as possible for your rpm. As far as your rear choices go…. I prefer the 9” center over OE because you have a wide selection of ratios and can go with a spool.

 

[Jroc]

A couple things just for your info…. I was using ID1700’s when I was running the Whipple 4.5L and saw 1202 rwhp thru my T400 and a 9” rear. That was at 23 lbs boost on Ignite Red. There is a significant drivetrain power loss on the dyno with that combination trans/rear when compared to OE. I was told approx 100. So the 1700’s will work for up to what amounts to somewhere around 1300, but that was maxed. I have since gone to the 2150’s and there is plenty of room for more with those. My driveline combination now is a Coan Engineering Factory Showdown 400-XLT. Ratios are 2.00/1.36 1st/2nd. Rear gear is a 3.40 with a 30” tall Radial Pro. So…. That’s my combination. If you are going to run a OE rear gear then you are looking at a 3.70. That’s pretty low for a car with the low end power and torque a built one of these makes. You are probably going to want to adjust those trans ratios accordingly. The 3.70 will work of coarse because some fast guys are using them. But I suspect that their motors are able to spin higher than 7000 rpm to get to the finish line without running out. Another part of the puzzle is the converter. Your trans/converter builder needs to spec that to work to with your total package and make sure you’re as tight in high gear as possible for your rpm. As far as your rear choices go…. I prefer the 9” center over OE because you have a wide selection of ratios and can go with a spool.

Thanks Marc, I appreciate your insights as always. With the Holley are you running a factory style pump or did you go with a FueLab/Fueltech type setup? I am leaning towards that and just having it draw from the factory straw.

 

[Marc W]

Thanks Marc, I appreciate your insights as always. With the Holley are you running a factory style pump or did you go with a FueLab/Fueltech type setup? I am leaning towards that and just having it draw from the factory straw.

I have a 12 gallon fuel cell in the trunk that has a sump. That was necessary due to the 4-link requiring the removal of the stock tank. I have the 8 gpm Aeromotive external gear drive pump. No reason the Dominator won’t work with a capable Fore system. Also no reason you couldn’t dump that heavy OE tank and go with a light weight cell.

 

[Jroc]

@Marc W you're right. I have no idea why I was even considering keeping the stock tank. Your setup is much simpler/lighter.

Well, it's been a while since I have been on. I finally got the car to run somewhat where I thought it should be.



Ended up with a best of 9.42 at 147 after throwing the 3.5-inch pulley on it. I think the 3.5 finally gets the Whipple 3.8 in its efficiency range as the 4.0 to 3.75 barely made any difference, and the 3.75 to 3.5 was worth 3 MPH and almost four-tenths.

Unfortunately, I ended up cooking the trans. I had a feeling it's been on its way out for a while now, and it finally decided to give up the ghost. As soon as it warms up, it starts slipping every gear change badly and eventually puts the car into limp mode. I know going to the TH400 is the way to go with my end goal for the car, but I still have a hard time making that decision due to all the other changes I'll have to make. I think realistically with everything I want to do to the car in the off-season, TH400, Holley EFI, new rear end that will be required due to the TH400, new engine combo, cage, parachute, fuel system. I probably won't have the car back out next year, but it probably makes the most sense to just do everything at once and get it over with.



Hopefully I get everything done and get it out for next year, but funds/time will be the deciding factor on that.

 

[Marc W]

@Marc W you're right. I have no idea why I was even considering keeping the stock tank. Your setup is much simpler/lighter.

Well, it's been a while since I have been on. I finally got the car to run somewhat where I thought it should be.

View attachment 117629 .

Ended up with a best of 9.42 at 147 after throwing the 3.5-inch pulley on it. I think the 3.5 finally gets the Whipple 3.8 in its efficiency range as the 4.0 to 3.75 barely made any difference, and the 3.75 to 3.5 was worth 3 MPH and almost four-tenths.

Unfortunately, I ended up cooking the trans. I had a feeling it's been on its way out for a while now, and it finally decided to give up the ghost. As soon as it warms up, it starts slipping every gear change badly and eventually puts the car into limp mode. I know going to the TH400 is the way to go with my end goal for the car, but I still have a hard time making that decision due to all the other changes I'll have to make. I think realistically with everything I want to do to the car in the off-season, TH400, Holley EFI, new rear end that will be required due to the TH400, new engine combo, cage, parachute, fuel system. I probably won't have the car back out next year, but it probably makes the most sense to just do everything at once and get it over with.

View attachment 117630

Hopefully I get everything done and get it out for next year, but funds/time will be the deciding factor on that.

Orchestrating a proper build is half the fun. Plus it’s a huge learning experience. 😎

 

[Unholy707]

Nice!

 

[Jroc]

Orchestrating a proper build is half the fun. Plus it’s a huge learning experience. 😎

Very true. I’m going to put it all out on paper before I start buying parts.

 

[Jroc]

Looks like I’ve got a TH400 and everything required to swap it into the car.

I’ll get the rest of the build plan on paper this week and let you guys know where we are going with it…

I did mention that it looked like I had a 426 shortblock for the car a few posts ago. Upon tear down it was no bueno so I’ll likely buy a rotating assembly and have my block machined.

 

[fumanchu182]

What holley controller are you going to go with? The terminator X max looks nice but no one will say if it can work with the 6.2. That leaves only the dominator and a hefty price bump.

 

[Jroc]

What holley controller are you going to go with? The terminator X max looks nice but no one will say if it can work with the 6.2. That leaves only the dominator and a hefty price bump.

I’m planning on going the dominator route. I believe I’ve been told the terminator x max will work but I’ll verify that for you.

The dominator is definitely a big price jump but I’m looking at it as a buy once cry once type situation I like the additional inputs and knowing that no matter where I go with the car in the future I’ll be covered.

Another option to consider is a Haltech apparently my buddy that sourced the Turbo 400 for my car is talking to them about one of their systems for it as well.

 

[DavidKFla]

Fuel Tech or Haltech doesn't make anything for this?

 

[Marc W]

What holley controller are you going to go with? The terminator X max looks nice but no one will say if it can work with the 6.2. That leaves only the dominator and a hefty price bump.

What holley controller are you going to go with? The terminator X max looks nice but no one will say if it can work with the 6.2. That leaves only the dominator and a hefty price bump.

Yes the Terminator will work. Once you remove all the CM’s it’s just another engine. You need to go on the Holley site and read about the different systems. The difference is the number of input and outputs the ECU has. The Max for example compared to the base Terminator, can control a electronic throttle body where the base unit can’t. If you are going to run a cable TB then that doesn’t matter. If you run a Dominator, it won’t work a VVT cam. You’ll have to lock it. If you are going race car where you will be employing sensors and triggers for the dozens of things that drag cars use to get down the track, then the Dominator is worth the money. While the Dominator is a thousand times more capable, the Terminators will work. As I said before… our blue car is running the Terminator because when it was being switched from the Hellcrate ECU it was using, the Dominator was backordered with no availability date. That car is still using the Terminator and is making over 1400whp. Personally with what I see you are building… I would recommend the Dominator. Those things have forever value in the world of drag racing. You could run a Pro Mod with one. The lower models are just street stuff by comparison.