Live action from FUMANCHU182.

[RGPIII]

Sorry to hear about your continued bad luck buddy.

 

[Marc W]

$.02….. My approach has always been to go with the strongest possible parts first. That is the most expensive way up front. That wasn’t done just to buy expensive shit. It was done with the goal of never breaking anything (the least expensive) approach. With a goal that was going to go beyond the expected capabilities of certain parts… it was done to save money and headaches. Breaking is not just expensive in the cost of parts but also the wasted effort and emotional cost (pissed-off factor) of doing stuff you don’t wanna do. We all know the downside of the stock diff. I forked out the extra dollars up front for the DSS 9” conversion when I first started and never had a problem with either the diff or the axles for that. I’ve never considered G-Force as a option. The combination of the 9” Pro Gear and spool in the Strange carrier, along with the DSS large inner stubs (and the spool turning both wheels together)….. works. Not only getting down the track but also with reliability. I know the first thing somebody is going to say….. You can’t run a spool on the street! I have…. NBFD 😂. For a car that needs to get down the track without breaking…. what’s more important? The rear being a little creaky during occasional street use, or breaking at the track and needing to be repaired (over and over)? Once you’re not talking a daily driver anymore, then things can (and should) be done differently. Back when I did that, the Wavetrac was available but not reliable. I’ll assume they’re better now so that’s an option. When it comes to the 9” vs the OE gearing….. the 9” will give you a better choice. A 3.40 rear with a 2nd gear launch will work way better on anything less than a hard prepped track. I ran my car with this rear setup at 4500 lbs, and on a prepped track, would see mid 1.2 sixty’s as the norm. I guess the point I’m making would be…. For somebody just starting out, wanting to have a “occasional” street use Hellcat that’s a 8 second track car, there are options that deal with the driveline carnage. I don’t know how many passes I put on that combination (many) running as fast as 8.7’s and NEVER broke anything.

 

[jonx96]

$.02….. My approach has always been to go with the strongest possible parts first. That is the most expensive way up front. That wasn’t done just to buy expensive shit. It was done with the goal of never breaking anything (the least expensive) approach. With a goal that was going to go beyond the expected capabilities of certain parts… it was done to save money and headaches. Breaking is not just expensive in the cost of parts but also the wasted effort and emotional cost (pissed-off factor) of doing stuff you don’t wanna do. We all know the downside of the stock diff. I forked out the extra dollars up front for the DSS 9” conversion when I first started and never had a problem with either the diff or the axles for that. I’ve never considered G-Force as a option. The combination of the 9” Pro Gear and spool in the Strange carrier, along with the DSS large inner stubs (and the spool turning both wheels together)….. works. Not only getting down the track but also with reliability. I know the first thing somebody is going to say….. You can’t run a spool on the street! I have…. NBFD 😂. For a car that needs to get down the track without breaking…. what’s more important? The rear being a little creaky during occasional street use, or breaking at the track and needing to be repaired (over and over)? Once you’re not talking a daily driver anymore, then things can (and should) be done differently. Back when I did that, the Wavetrac was available but not reliable. I’ll assume they’re better now so that’s an option. When it comes to the 9” vs the OE gearing….. the 9” will give you a better choice. A 3.40 rear with a 2nd gear launch will work way better on anything less than a hard prepped track. I ran my car with this rear setup at 4500 lbs, and on a prepped track, would see mid 1.2 sixty’s as the norm. I guess the point I’m making would be…. For somebody just starting out, wanting to have a “occasional” street use Hellcat that’s a 8 second track car, there are options that deal with the driveline carnage. I don’t know how many passes I put on that combination (many) running as fast as 8.7’s and NEVER broke anything.

Marc I believe it was you 3 or 4 years ago that posted a 9in conversion for sale with Tires suspension and wheels. It was a complete drop in and drop out deal. I said I will never need this. How the times have changed

 

[Marc W]

Marc I believe it was you 3 or 4 years ago that posted a 9in conversion for sale with Tires suspension and wheels. It was a complete drop in and drop out deal. I said I will never need this. How the times have changed

Yep. Of coarse there are other options now. Some starting out today don’t realize how limited things were back then. There’s another consideration for somebody starting from scratch to consider as far as costs go. The whole enchilada is a lot of money for sure. But…. If you put all the stock stuff away for down the road, you can get half your money back for the race stuff when you put the car back to stock when the day comes to say goodbye. All that race stuff will end up only costing you half as much as the initial investment, and with all the money saved on not breaking stuff…. it’s actually free 🤗

 

[vortecd]

$.02….. My approach has always been to go with the strongest possible parts first. That is the most expensive way up front. That wasn’t done just to buy expensive shit. It was done with the goal of never breaking anything (the least expensive) approach. With a goal that was going to go beyond the expected capabilities of certain parts… it was done to save money and headaches. Breaking is not just expensive in the cost of parts but also the wasted effort and emotional cost (pissed-off factor) of doing stuff you don’t wanna do. We all know the downside of the stock diff. I forked out the extra dollars up front for the DSS 9” conversion when I first started and never had a problem with either the diff or the axles for that. I’ve never considered G-Force as a option. The combination of the 9” Pro Gear and spool in the Strange carrier, along with the DSS large inner stubs (and the spool turning both wheels together)….. works. Not only getting down the track but also with reliability. I know the first thing somebody is going to say….. You can’t run a spool on the street! I have…. NBFD 😂. For a car that needs to get down the track without breaking…. what’s more important? The rear being a little creaky during occasional street use, or breaking at the track and needing to be repaired (over and over)? Once you’re not talking a daily driver anymore, then things can (and should) be done differently. Back when I did that, the Wavetrac was available but not reliable. I’ll assume they’re better now so that’s an option. When it comes to the 9” vs the OE gearing….. the 9” will give you a better choice. A 3.40 rear with a 2nd gear launch will work way better on anything less than a hard prepped track. I ran my car with this rear setup at 4500 lbs, and on a prepped track, would see mid 1.2 sixty’s as the norm. I guess the point I’m making would be…. For somebody just starting out, wanting to have a “occasional” street use Hellcat that’s a 8 second track car, there are options that deal with the driveline carnage. I don’t know how many passes I put on that combination (many) running as fast as 8.7’s and NEVER broke anything.

I hated having a spool in a daily. You only notice it on turns but didn't like the tire skipping. I knew the diff was the weak link why I did it but the car was light and didn't leave hard so really didn't need it

 

[fumanchu182]

Marc I believe it was you 3 or 4 years ago that posted a 9in conversion for sale with Tires suspension and wheels. It was a complete drop in and drop out deal. I said I will never need this. How the times have changed

Yep. Of coarse there are other options now. Some starting out today don’t realize how limited things were back then. There’s another consideration for somebody starting from scratch to consider as far as costs go. The whole enchilada is a lot of money for sure. But…. If you put all the stock stuff away for down the road, you can get half your money back for the race stuff when you put the car back to stock when the day comes to say goodbye. All that race stuff will end up only costing you half as much as the initial investment, and with all the money saved on not breaking stuff…. it’s actually free 🤗

I hated having a spool in a daily. You only notice it on turns but didn't like the tire skipping. I knew the diff was the weak link why I did it but the car was light and didn't leave hard so really didn't need it

Thank you all for the feedback. The car is retired. It will be driven occasionally to events to keep the friend’s circle tight. I have no inclination to buy any more parts nor part out. I know I can whoop 99% of cars on the road. Im good.

Time to focus on other options. I am speaking with dynocom soon about the 7500 model but waiting in partners for lease to figure that out and see if they will accomodate. If that falls through I will decide in December what to do with the old hellcat motor. There is a foxbody shell two houses over for sale 😂.

 

[jonx96]

Thank you all for the feedback. The car is retired. It will be driven occasionally to events to keep the friend’s circle tight. I have no inclination to buy any more parts nor part out. I know I can whoop 99% of cars on the road. Im good.

Time to focus on other options. I am speaking with dynocom soon about the 7500 model but waiting in partners for lease to figure that out and see if they will accomodate. If that falls through I will decide in December what to do with the old hellcat motor. There is a foxbody shell two houses over for sale 😂.

I have had the same thought. How far do I want to push this full size, full interior car. That I can put a car seat in and the dog and let the wife drive @vortecd saw that this weekend.
I would be much better off buying a dedicated race car then push on this one much more.

 

[Marc W]

I hated having a spool in a daily. You only notice it on turns but didn't like the tire skipping. I knew the diff was the weak link why I did it but the car was light and didn't leave hard so really didn't need it

I agree. The key word being “daily”. But… I kinda like chirping the tire around corners though 😂. The reason I recommended a spool is… you know how some aren’t seeing the sixty ft numbers they would like? Just a thought but….. I don’t think most of the cars with the stock rear have a solid LSD working for them. They are driving one tire and the other is just a limp wrist tag along. It’s no wonder they’re stuck in the 1.5’s. They may spin both on a no prep street surface where there’s not any traction resulting in two black strips, but on a track where the LSD has to work….. 💨💨💨. Anyway…. Yes a spool would be a pain for a daily driver getting into and out of parking spaces and such but for cruising when the drive is just about the car… 👍🏼

 

[fumanchu182]

Part 1 of trying to figure out whats wrong.

@jonx96 thinks I broke the wavetrac, still haven’t
Found the culprit. If you enjoy the video don’t forget tk like and comment. Help me make some small YT monies. Race car parts aren't cheap.

 

[DavidKFla]

Part 1 of trying to figure out whats wrong.

@jonx96 thinks I broke the wavetrac, still haven’t
Found the culprit. If you enjoy the video don’t forget tk like and comment. Help me make some small YT monies. Race car parts aren't cheap.

I watched it last night. You need to add some scantily dressed girls in the mix.

 

[Unholy707]

Broke the wavetrac?!?

 

[Unholy707]

I’d hate to say it, and that does involve more money… but some go pros mounted on fenders looks at tires and possibly under to see what’s going on when you launch. That tight axles looks really compressed. I bet it’s binded up. Could have gotten wheel hop on that side, could be a lot of things unfortunately. Wheelie looked good! Car is no slouch for sure. So it’s $6k for a 9” conversion with driveshaft. You have me leaning towards that now. Then again, I’m on borrowed time with my stock 2015 axles still. But I’m not doing wheelies or making anywhere near your power lol

 

[Unholy707]

I’m a one man show, but would be nice to have a crew up on the line videoing the car from several angles

 

[fumanchu182]

I watched it last night. You need to add some scantily dressed girls in the mix.

put on the dress

I’d hate to say it, and that does involve more money… but some go pros mounted on fenders looks at tires and possibly under to see what’s going on when you launch. That tight axles looks really compressed. I bet it’s binded up. Could have gotten wheel hop on that side, could be a lot of things unfortunately. Wheelie looked good! Car is no slouch for sure. So it’s $6k for a 9” conversion with driveshaft. You have me leaning towards that now. Then again, I’m on borrowed time with my stock 2015 axles still. But I’m not doing wheelies or making anywhere near your power lol

absolutely not spending 8k

 

[oilburner]

the wheel that is stiff to turn, did you check to see if caliper is sticking?

 

[fumanchu182]

Its not the calipers, took wheels off, spins easier. The 315 was drooping and hitting body.

the wheel that is stiff to turn, did you check to see if caliper is sticking?

 

[zhc]

Back in 2017-2018 when I was just running 9's in my Charger, I purchased a new GForce 9" rear with their drive shaft and axles and proceeded to spend the next 14 months breaking CV's every other hit at the track. They'd get real noisy while turning, I'd send them in to get fixed, I'd get them back and they'd get noisy again after 1 or 2 passes. It would still be usable but would make the typical worn out CV noise when turning in a specific direction. This was before they figured out that there was a geometry issue with their design which now the fix is to have the diff sit higher in a modified cradle. I sent mine back for a full refund, wasted over a year not making any progress because of it.

CV joint noise is rather distinctive but if you're not sure, another sign that points to the axle/cv is that it makes noise turning one way but not the other. If it's the axle, you can try applying more gas while it's making noise to see if it gets worse. If it does, that's more confirmation that it's a bad CV. If the LSD is broken, typically you would have issues turning in both directions.

Unfortunately, with things like this, it all remains a possibility and the surest way to figure out what's wrong is to start swapping out parts. I'd start with that axle that seems to have more play in it, especially if that play is in either the inner or outer CV area. Fresh axles with fresh CV's have very little to no play in those areas.

 

[jonx96]

@fumanchu182 - @zhc brings up a good point. I can't remember if it was you or someone else but is your car lowered? If so could be the root cause

 

[fumanchu182]

Back in 2017-2018 when I was just running 9's in my Charger, I purchased a new GForce 9" rear with their drive shaft and axles and proceeded to spend the next 14 months breaking CV's every other hit at the track. They'd get real noisy while turning, I'd send them in to get fixed, I'd get them back and they'd get noisy again after 1 or 2 passes. It would still be usable but would make the typical worn out CV noise when turning in a specific direction. This was before they figured out that there was a geometry issue with their design which now the fix is to have the diff sit higher in a modified cradle. I sent mine back for a full refund, wasted over a year not making any progress because of it.

CV joint noise is rather distinctive but if you're not sure, another sign that points to the axle/cv is that it makes noise turning one way but not the other. If it's the axle, you can try applying more gas while it's making noise to see if it gets worse. If it does, that's more confirmation that it's a bad CV. If the LSD is broken, typically you would have issues turning in both directions.

Unfortunately, with things like this, it all remains a possibility and the surest way to figure out what's wrong is to start swapping out parts. I'd start with that axle that seems to have more play in it, especially if that play is in either the inner or outer CV area. Fresh axles with fresh CV's have very little to no play in those areas.

This makes the most sense. The passenger side has a lot more play than the drivers side. It is only when I made left turns at the track that it was making the noise. Ill try and get the axles out, so far there is no indicator that the differential is broke .

 

[fumanchu182]

@fumanchu182 - @zhc brings up a good point. I can't remember if it was you or someone else but is your car lowered? If so could be the root cause

Car is not lowered afaik, on HHP racing springs. Don't know if they retain the stock height.