Live action from FUMANCHU182.

[fumanchu182]

Leak down test, final assembly on the s/c side done. Teflon tape no more!





Pulled a vacuum, now to relax for a half hour.

 

[fumanchu182]

All done! Filling supercharger coolant tonight the a date with Starks Performance to switch to 134a.
Lets talk AC lines first…

liquid line from firewall
Suction line from firewall.
Liquid line tee
Liquid line from condenser

snake the main power from rocker panel to rear



snake through back divider to the PDC

i choose body ground instead of battery ground

 

[fumanchu182]

Now all the electrical

power for the three way bypass was routed along the strut tower then snaked through firewall to the switches.

this line is used to extend the ac compressor pressure sensor that you will move from OE spot to up front

see the black cap in the lower right, thats the original sensor location. Wrench size is 14mm.
Move it to up front at this location.

Then use the extension harness.

 

[fumanchu182]

Theory of operation:

• Red rocker panel switch, emergency or winter driving, will use three way bypass to route through main SC condenser. Off means directly to pump.
• Blue on means normal street driving that means AC always on and sending coolant through the system. Its okay to leave it on all year round. Max AC for racing mode obviously. Off mean race pull drag valve is closed and all coolant diverted to IC brick.
• Car should never be started with drag valve closed, get car to operating temp first
  

 

[Speedy!]

I'd not recommend those butt and plastic splice connectors. Those have given me trouble.

 

[fumanchu182]

Theory of operation:

• Red rocker panel switch, emergency or winter driving, will use three way bypass to route through main SC condenser. Off means directly to pump.
• Blue on means normal street driving that means AC always on and sending coolant through the system. Its okay to leave it on all year round. Max AC for racing mode obviously. Off mean race pull drag valve is closed and all coolant diverted to IC brick.
• Car should never be started with drag valve closed, get car to operating temp first

So good thing I reached out to the team at IC Chiller. The instructions are for their old kit.

​

Blue LED off: Cabin AC is on as well as Chiller (This is the mode you would normally run the vehicle in on 60 degree or warmer days)​

Blue LED on: This is drag mode. Cabin AC is blocked off and all refrigerant is dedicated to the chiller now.​

Red LED off: This is the mode you will normally operate in at all times keeping the coolant in a closed loop system with the chiller.​

Red LED on: Only a couple of times you would possibly use this mode. This allows coolant to flow through the factory heat exchanger. (1) Use in case of an emergency such as a minor accident or just AC system stopped working. (2) When temperatures are below 60 degrees when AC is not operating.​

 

[hellno]

I love the ice tank insulation 👍

 

[jgilj]

I love the ice tank insulation 👍

He learned that from the tin man 👍

 

[fumanchu182]

I love the ice tank insulation 👍

one evening with the tank, a xacto knife and two of these Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier, 12" x 24" https://a.co/d/4ssJfMa

He learned that from the tin man 👍

Well at least it wasnt the scarecrow 😂

 

[fumanchu182]

first time using the paddle shifters since she sent. Lets just say the pants were changed 😂. Downshifts, smooth. Upshifts, smooth. IC Chiller testing as well. With just the defroster mode she got to 30*. 🥶

 

[fumanchu182]

 

[jonx96]

This stock car is calling you out

 

[fumanchu182]

This stock car is calling you out

Stock my hairy asshole, put your interior back in. 😂

 

[jonx96]

Stock my hairy asshole, put your interior back in. 😂

It’s all in there. I drove the car to a track hour and a half away with the baby in his car seat and the back seat in October.

 

[vortecd]

It’s all in there. I drove the car to a track hour and a half away with the baby in his car seat and the back seat in October.

And went 9.1

 

[fumanchu182]

Decided that this evening I wanted to fix the plastics on the bumper. First stop the weather strip.


came out great, should keep bullshit off the engine while driving

next up getting rid of the ugly ugly


now to make this look decent again


Jackass before me used regular body panel inserts. i used actual plastic rivets, its rock solid now. Also have all new under panels as well.
Decides to clean up and refresh the front fascia deck lids

 

[fumanchu182]

Late night rambling, think I have had almost every component on this car touched by me. My garage is a warzone and Ive been sober for months… new toy, tested it with hot cocoa

 

[fumanchu182]

heed the warning!

without the spacer it hits, might just be suspension articulation
Very very shiny…

spacer, no hit!
Napa for the valve stems, FTW!
Im finna to paint these soon
Hand start every bolt with a dab of anti-sieze. First go around, 5ft/lbs. Second go around, 10ft/lbs. Final go around 10ft/lbs again.
On the left 295/60r15, on the right 275/60r15. Ones for fuck around find out, the other ones for small tire class racing.

 

[RGPIII]

Cmon! Step up to the 315/60/15’s! Or at least the 29.5x10.5x15’s

 

[fumanchu182]

Cmon! Step up to the 315/60/15’s! Or at least the 29.5x10.5x15’s
View attachment 95108 View attachment 95109

meh no need to, the 295 do the job, readily available and tested by HHP as the go to