Live action from FUMANCHU182.

[zhc]

pulling the plug on this diff disassmble. Going to use the diff Z gave me and start cleaning it out tonight. Will work with someone on getting a crush sleeve eliminator built.

Nice you'll be able to say that a part of your car has been 7's in the quarter.

 

[fumanchu182]

Nice you'll be able to say that a part of your car has been 7's in the quarter.

The fastest part of my car 😂

 

[catdad]

if your units are complete assembled diffs you will not be checking pinion brg preload. your checking how much it takes to rotate the whole diff. carrier included.

Diffs are apart as I was checking clutch packs.

 

[Unholy707]

I think that means a piece of my car will finally go 7s 😅

 

[fumanchu182]

Diffapalooza 2.0 these instructions are for differentials that aren’t blown up and pinion doesnt need to be cleaned.

Step 1: Remove cover, 16mm and 12mm bolts.
Step 2: Inspect cover clean
Step 3: Install TBA machine bottom plate and carrier caps. The carrier caps are torqued to 120ft/lbs. Reference: Install the bearing caps and torque them to 120ft/lbs and check the back lash on the ring gear. It should be between .003-.005”. Brand new housings from Dodge are right at .004”.


Step 4: lock pinion flange in vice

Step 5: ensure that dial indicator is not contacting other teet

Step 6: move ring gear slightly and measure movement

Seems this diff averages around .004. This is not rocket science but its close. No stores had marking compound so Ill do that tomorrow after a visit to Napa. Start disassembly and cleaning. Maybe even get the ring gear off. @zhc you ready to show the world what clutches from 7s passes look like?

 

[Unholy707]

@fumanchu182 spilling the secret sauce. Amazing info, thanks for sharing. 309 good karma points

 

[fumanchu182]

I had to remeasure backlash. Glad I did.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Was going to say your indicator needed to be perpendicular to a tooth profile but you got it 👍🏻👍
Carry on soldier

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Now for pinion depth??

 

[oilburner]

Now for pinion depth??

pinion depth is the first thing you set with the carrier removed, which is the position of the pinion in the housing an how deep into the ring gear. then back lash then final is carrier side brg. pre load with the shims.
checking pinion depth is when you use the paste to see where the teeth line up with each other.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

pinion depth is the first thing you set with the carrier removed, which is the position of the pinion in the housing an how deep into the ring gear. then back lash then final is carrier side brg. pre load with the shims.
checking pinion depth is when you use the paste to see where the teeth line up with each other.

Yes, correct. In Fumans post above he mentions getting hard marking compound, I’m assuming that’s what he’s looking for to do such with. I’m curious of what he finds, stock carrier verses replaced carrier with same gear on it.

 

[fumanchu182]

pinion depth is the first thing you set with the carrier removed, which is the position of the pinion in the housing an how deep into the ring gear. then back lash then final is carrier side brg. pre load with the shims.
checking pinion depth is when you use the paste to see where the teeth line up with each other.

Yes, correct. In Fumans post above he mentions getting hard marking compound, I’m assuming that’s what he’s looking for to do such with. I’m curious of what he finds, stock carrier verses replaced carrier with same gear on it.

I will not be removing the pinion on this, clean out and build. I need the marking compound to ensure that the current backlash is meshing right and also a photo to ensure that when I put it back together and check again I’m close. I did a prototype crush sleeve eliminator but my crushed sleeve + shims may not be right for everyone.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I will not be removing the pinion on this, clean out and build. I need the marking compound to ensure that the current backlash is meshing right and also a photo to ensure that when I put it back together and check again I’m close. I did a prototype crush sleeve eliminator but my crushed sleeve + shims may not be right for everyone.

Kind of figured that was your plan

 

[fumanchu182]

@zhc has a factory freak. Immaculate clutches and steels.



To remove the ring gear no heat is required.

 

[zhc]

@zhc has a factory freak. Immaculate clutches and steels.

Smooth controlled burn outs with both wheels spinning is the key.

Those clutches burn up real quick when only one wheel spins and you don’t realize it.

One way you can tell you’re only spinning one wheel is your speedometer will be reading much lower, like half or less than expected for the rpm and gear that you’re in

 

[fumanchu182]

300*F in an oven for an hour, slid right on.

300* in an oven, stopped half way, pissed me the fuck off.

improvised and cut an old bearing open, ground out some of the interior and used mechanical persuasion


final assembly tomorrow (shims, final ring gear torque, housing assembly)

 

[DavidKFla]

Looks like another pissed off female in the world last night?

 

[fumanchu182]

Looks like another pissed off female in the world last night?

Says the communal groupie passed around at drag week 😂

 

[DavidKFla]

Says the communal groupie passed around at drag week 😂

Jealousy will get you nowhere. Just continue to stay home.

 

[Unholy707]

I wonder if you froze the entire carrier to contract it and heater the bearing to expand it would have worked. I had to throw my pilot bushing for crank in freezer overnight, then slid right in